Lisa
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Attic conversion?We have a nice size attic that has never been used for anything. Before we moved in, the only access area was a tiny square cut into the ceiling of a closet - a grown man could barely squeeze through. When we were renovating the house, we had a pull-down ladder installed in a hallway and we were able to get up there and have a better look around. The roof line gives plenty of head room an is really cool - it would make a lovely room. Problem is, we have no idea what we could use the room for! A reading loft? Master suite (we already have a nice Master area, though..) A storage and hobby area? (Finally, a place for sewing and needlework stuff)
We could build stairs using the existing basement stairwell, I think - but we'd have to remove the built-in desk and shelves at the end of the hallway. No matter; I think it could be reassembled in the loft and serve as our computer area.
So please share with me - have you renovated your attic space? If you haven't but could, what would you do with the space? 
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Lion
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Lisa, sounds like you have a really neat area up in the attic and I like your ideas for its use. I think it should be your space for whatever you want to use it for since your husband has his in the basement. We do not have an attic but if we did I would turn it into a reading room/library with space for the computer!!!
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Jimbits76
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Where do I start?
Pm me...the law would be different from the UK and US but I can help you with ideas if you like and give you some ideas of safety issues.
J
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Lisa
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| Lion wrote: | | Lisa, sounds like you have a really neat area up in the attic and I like your ideas for its use. I think it should be your space for whatever you want to use it for since your husband has his in the basement. We do not have an attic but if we did I would turn it into a reading room/library with space for the computer!!! |
I like the idea of a quiet reading area, Leo. You're absolutely right; Dave has a big basement to himself... if I think about it, I really have no space at all just for my use. I can see a nice comfy couch; some throw pillows and big rugs... luckily, since it's such a large area, there could be several uses for the space. Hobby area, reading nook, storage, nap zone! 
I might even climb up and post a couple of pictures...
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Lisa
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Here's a little look - luckily all of the heating and air conditioning stuff is installed in the basement.
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Lion
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Lisa, the space looks great. I say go for it and make it your own!!!
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Lisa
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| Jimbits76 wrote: | Where do I start?
Pm me...the law would be different from the UK and US but I can help you with ideas if you like and give you some ideas of safety issues.
J |
Jim, I knew this would be right up your alley. There's a lot of attic conversion info on the net and most of it seems to be from UK companies. I looked into this type of project at our old house, and learned a little about egress issues (spelling?) and support/headroom requirements. But even before I consulted an architect, I'd need to think a lot more on what the space would be used for....  It just seems like such a waste - all that area sitting empty all these years.
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BigBird
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Your house was built before plywood and those are true 2" X 4"s. Have someone check out the floor, which is really the ceiling. Big difference between floor joists and ceiling joists. The tricky part will be moving the roof supports. I built out an area above the garage and had to build a load bearing wall and add a header, in this case a laminated beam, in the garage to carry the load from the roof. How will you heat and cool and will you build stairs. I a sure you have thought about electrical and stuff. Good luck. 
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BigBird
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When was the insulation blown in? I am thinking about asbestos, but that should have been covered during your home inspection now that I think about it.
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jdc
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one of Rosemary's to do wishes. We have a big area that could be a very large master bedroom and ensuite or two smaller rooms. Over here there are so many regulations and we would be looking at a cost between
£30 - 50 k. We don't need the space so I am not worried about not getting it done, but many houseowners are going this route as it is a cheaper option than moving. Just today we have got planning notice that one of our neighbours is going this route
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Jimbits76
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Okay. This is friendly non-technical advice and should be used for guidance only, it's not a professional opinion as the laws are obviously different between our countries!
Egress is a tricky situation. Dormer windows are best but you could provide escape rooflights (velux etc) to ensure escape should you have a fire on the lower floor.
If you have issues with planning authorities, neighbour schemes or building regulations then you can provide egress with the use of a protected staircase. That would mean that all doors to habitable rooms on the lower floors would have to be replaced with fire doors giving a fire and smoke seal rating of at least 30mins to allow the inhabitants of the attic to escape.
If the existing ceiling joists are only 2x4" they can remain (to preserve existing ceilings) however they will need bolting to a minimum of 2x8" (UK law however).
If you're going with a reading room (something quiet) I'd recommend 22mm chipboard flooring and perhaps a floating floor treatment to limit sound transfer.
At the internal eaves I'd put in studwork walling finished with a plasterboard laminate...I'd treat the underside of the rafters the same. (I'm unsure whether your buildings have to comply to insulated U Value requirements...here it would be common to insulate with 100mm insulation between and 37.5mm insulated plasterboard laminate below.
With the space you have I'd consider an en suite Shower room if you have the spare money. When it comes to selling a self contained living area with it's only toilet and wash/shower facilities would no doubt improve the value.
Headroom here is a tricky one...there are no real major regulations on headroom but 1.8m is a minimum, most headroom in an attic is 2.2m to 2.4m.
As for design, finish and what to do with it...I'd consider a nice reading room/library. Stick a couple of steel beams in within the ceiling void to hold a concrete slab up and I'd upgrade the chimney to flue out a nice little woodburning stove (a teeny one). Warm creams, leather chairs, stacks of books, soft, peach lamps and lighting.
Perfect!
God I'm a queen!
J
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Jimbits76
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| BigBird wrote: | | Your house was built before plywood and those are true 2" X 4"s. Have someone check out the floor, which is really the ceiling. Big difference between floor joists and ceiling joists. The tricky part will be moving the roof supports. I built out an area above the garage and had to build a load bearing wall and add a header, in this case a laminated beam, in the garage to carry the load from the roof. How will you heat and cool and will you build stairs. I a sure you have thought about electrical and stuff. Good luck. |
Bah I took too long to post!!!!!
Stop stealing my thunder 
J
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Jimbits76
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| jdc wrote: | one of Rosemary's to do wishes. We have a big area that could be a very large master bedroom and ensuite or two smaller rooms. Over here there are so many regulations and we would be looking at a cost between
£30 - 50 k. We don't need the space so I am not worried about not getting it done, but many houseowners are going this route as it is a cheaper option than moving. Just today we have got planning notice that one of our neighbours is going this route |
Martin when the time comes, I'll quote you as low as the boss will let me for your work. I'll get it sorted cheaper than anybody else you find.
You can take that to the bank...errmmm loft...ermmm oh bugger it!
J
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Jimbits76
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Looking at the pics again. God only knows what those struts are doing????
Either speak to an engineer and have them removed and replaced with purlins (tho the roof seems stable and purled enough) or design some internal studwork in the space to conceal a percentage of them.
Not only a Queen, I'm a nerd!
J
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Lisa
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I should have gotten a shot of the floor - it looks to be made of 2 X 4s but am not sure how far they are spaced apart. Under the insulation you can see rebar and plaster which is the ceiling downstairs. If we had to use wider (taller) joists for a floor, couldn't they be run alongside the existing boards? Or would that be too much weight?
I don't know about any of that stuff, guys.  In cart-before-the-horse fashion, right now I'm in the fantasy stage - trying to picture what the space could look like. If we decide to get serious, I'll try to find a good architect and go from there... 
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BigBird
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| Jimbits76 wrote: | Looking at the pics again. God only knows what those struts are doing????
Either speak to an engineer and have them removed and replaced with purlins (tho the roof seems stable and purled enough) or design some internal studwork in the space to conceal a percentage of them.
Not only a Queen, I'm a nerd!
J |
Looks to me that they were added afterwards.
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BigBird
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| Lisa wrote: |
In cart-before-the-horse fashion, right now I'm in the fantasy stage - trying to picture what the space could look like. ... |
Are we talking about ole' FarmBoy76 and his infamous plowing technique or something else.
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Jimbits76
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You're right Joe, they don't look structural as they are very slender and they are two piece nailed at the mid point (weakest point structurally).
Lisa an architect or builder can figure out the spans of your joists and the bearing positions...the floor joists would probably span the same direction and sit alongside the ceiling joists.
J
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BigBird
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| Jimbits76 wrote: | You're right Joe, they don't look structural as they are very slender and they are two piece nailed at the mid point (weakest point structurally).
Lisa an architect or builder can figure out the spans of your joists and the bearing positions...the floor joists would probably span the same direction and sit alongside the ceiling joists.
J |
When you have a home inspection before buying, they have to come up with something to justify their fee. Kind of like when a lawyer reviews a well written contract, they just have to make changes.
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Lisa
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| BigBird wrote: | | When was the insulation blown in? I am thinking about asbestos, but that should have been covered during your home inspection now that I think about it. |
Ah, good thought. When we had the Marmoleum floor installed in the kitchen, the contractor wouldn't reove the old Congoleum floor because of the asbestos worry... I didn't like it having to stay, but we were in a time crunch and testing for asbestos was a hassle, so I let it be.
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BigBird
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| Lisa wrote: | | BigBird wrote: | | When was the insulation blown in? I am thinking about asbestos, but that should have been covered during your home inspection now that I think about it. |
Ah, good thought. When we had the Marmoleum floor installed in the kitchen, the contractor wouldn't reove the old Congoleum floor because of the asbestos worry... I didn't like it having to stay, but we were in a time crunch and testing for asbestos was a hassle, so I let it be. |
Believe it or not, covering up and sealing the area is better than removal of asbestos. Now, the guys who tear it out will disagree. Best to let the asbestos fibers stay where they are instead of spreading them into the air.
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Jimbits76
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This is all too serious for me, it actually sounds like the "real" me...I need to talk about something stupid...more to come soon!
J
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Lisa
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| jdc wrote: | one of Rosemary's to do wishes. We have a big area that could be a very large master bedroom and ensuite or two smaller rooms. Over here there are so many regulations and we would be looking at a cost between
£30 - 50 k. We don't need the space so I am not worried about not getting it done, but many houseowners are going this route as it is a cheaper option than moving. Just today we have got planning notice that one of our neighbours is going this route |
I do wonder about the expense.... I'd guess it could easily top $30,000 or more... good reason not to get in too big a hurry. (gotta pay for a couple of other things first, anyway... )
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BigBird
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| Jimbits76 wrote: | This is all too serious for me, it actually sounds like the "real" me...I need to talk about something stupid...more to come soon!
J |
Look ole' SockThroat76, you will not have to try very hard.
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jdc
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| Jimbits76 wrote: | | jdc wrote: | one of Rosemary's to do wishes. We have a big area that could be a very large master bedroom and ensuite or two smaller rooms. Over here there are so many regulations and we would be looking at a cost between
£30 - 50 k. We don't need the space so I am not worried about not getting it done, but many houseowners are going this route as it is a cheaper option than moving. Just today we have got planning notice that one of our neighbours is going this route |
Martin when the time comes, I'll quote you as low as the boss will let me for your work. I'll get it sorted cheaper than anybody else you find.
You can take that to the bank...errmmm loft...ermmm oh bugger it!
J |
Thanks Jim and I am never going to show Rosemary this thread
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Lisa
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| Jimbits76 wrote: | Looking at the pics again. God only knows what those struts are doing????
Either speak to an engineer and have them removed and replaced with purlins (tho the roof seems stable and purled enough) or design some internal studwork in the space to conceal a percentage of them.
Not only a Queen, I'm a nerd!
J |
Jim, you are the perfect combo for advice on this project - you possess the eye for aesthetics and the construction know-how, too!
Thanks to all of you for your good advice and comments! If we decide to do this, it would certainly not be a rush - but it would be nice to have a conversion done before I'd be too old to climb the stairs!
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Lisa
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| BigBird wrote: | | Lisa wrote: | | BigBird wrote: | | When was the insulation blown in? I am thinking about asbestos, but that should have been covered during your home inspection now that I think about it. |
Ah, good thought. When we had the Marmoleum floor installed in the kitchen, the contractor wouldn't reove the old Congoleum floor because of the asbestos worry... I didn't like it having to stay, but we were in a time crunch and testing for asbestos was a hassle, so I let it be. |
Believe it or not, covering up and sealing the area is better than removal of asbestos. Now, the guys who tear it out will disagree. Best to let the asbestos fibers stay where they are instead of spreading them into the air. |
Yes, I'd heard that is true... I had my doubts that the existing flooring had any asbestos in it, but no harm done in leaving it in place. Maybe it even helps the floor stay warmer in the winter!
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Lisa
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| BigBird wrote: | | Jimbits76 wrote: | Looking at the pics again. God only knows what those struts are doing????
Either speak to an engineer and have them removed and replaced with purlins (tho the roof seems stable and purled enough) or design some internal studwork in the space to conceal a percentage of them.
Not only a Queen, I'm a nerd!
J |
Looks to me that they were added afterwards. |
Dave sid the same thing - that those supports don't seem to serve any purpose. I suppose that's a good thing in this case.
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ob1
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Hi Lisa, wish I'd been on line earlier to join in the conversation. Jim and Joe have given you some great advice. It looks like a brilliant space up there. I agree about the supports that are up already. They don't look like they do much, but get some proper advice on that.
A reading/getting away from everyone Lisa room is a perfect use, don't forget the drinks/pills cabinet
The only bit of advice I can chime in with is too decide exactly what you're going to do before the builders turn up, otherwise the budget goes out of the window. My poor empty wallet knows this from expensive experience.
Mark
Btw, I should have posted some more pics from my place by now, sorry Lisa. We've done loads more to it since you last saw some shots. I'll try and get round to it soon
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Tools
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Interesting space.. Looks like the 2x4's were put in to stop the original roof from sagging and warping in some areas.. From the bend in a few, it also looks like they are now supporting a load.. It is likely that a short stud wall along each side of the space can provide better, even support, for the roof, providing there is a load wall underneath in the main house. Much of the engineering effort will then need to go into the load bearing capability of the ceiling, which will become the floor. That type of roof was designed to transfer the load from the center beam down to the outside walls, and then down to the foundation. Therefore, the ceiling is not likely able to support an ambitious design with heavy floor loads in it's present state..
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Lisa
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| ob1 wrote: | Hi Lisa, wish I'd been on line earlier to join in the conversation. Jim and Joe have given you some great advice. It looks like a brilliant space up there. I agree about the supports that are up already. They don't look like they do much, but get some proper advice on that.
A reading/getting away from everyone Lisa room is a perfect use, don't forget the drinks/pills cabinet
The only bit of advice I can chime in with is too decide exactly what you're going to do before the builders turn up, otherwise the budget goes out of the window. My poor empty wallet knows this from expensive experience.
Mark
Btw, I should have posted some more pics from my place by now, sorry Lisa. We've done loads more to it since you last saw some shots. I'll try and get round to it soon |
Thanks, Mark. I'd love to see some pictures of your progress. But I also know that stopping to take pictures during a construction project isn't usually a priority.
Yes, I've been thinking that a little bar/refreshment area might be nice.... 
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Lisa
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| Tools wrote: | | Interesting space.. Looks like the 2x4's were put in to stop the original roof from sagging and warping in some areas.. From the bend in a few, it also looks like they are now supporting a load.. It is likely that a short stud wall along each side of the space can provide better, even support, for the roof, providing there is a load wall underneath in the main house. Much of the engineering effort will then need to go into the load bearing capability of the ceiling, which will become the floor. That type of roof was designed to transfer the load from the center beam down to the outside walls, and then down to the foundation. Therefore, the ceiling is not likely able to support an ambitious design with heavy floor loads in it's present state.. |
Soooo.... I guess in indoor swimming pool up there would be out of the question..... 
Thanks for your thoughts, Larry... the way you describe a "stud wall" makes me wonder if that would lend itself to some base cabinets tucked between the studs. I'm looking for storage space, and had thought about some cabinets to go where the roof slopes to the floor. Does that make sense?
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Tools
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Sure.........
A stud wall along here on both sides, with a laminate header on top, would give you good roof support, although it might be nice to sister some 2x8's beside all the in-place 2x4's in the existing roof.
Then probably doing the same on the new floor....... place all your new cabinets against these new short stud wall, and you have the entire centrl space for some furniture..
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ob1
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Good idea Larry, kill 2 birds with one stone
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Tools
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After you sister in the new roof lumber, you will want to also secure some cross support at the top........ this helps triangulate the structure giving you lots of support and help for the original main beam, and a nice flat roof to drywall against..
re-route all your existing duct-work and electrical back behind your new short stud walls........
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Lisa
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Excellent, Larry! That was what I had envisioned based on your description. When you say the cabinets could be placed against the wall, couldn't they actually be recessed between the studs, making use of that triangular space? (actually, that would be more of a Toblerone shape!)
This is really helping to get some ideas rolling around in me tiny brain!
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Tools
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| Lisa wrote: | Excellent, Larry! That was what I had envisioned based on your description. When you say the cabinets could be placed against the wall, couldn't they actually be recessed between the studs, making use of that triangular space? (actually, that would be more of a Toblerone shape!)
This is really helping to get some ideas rolling around in me tiny brain! |
Well, yes, they can........ but then you need to space out your studs to more than code may allow, usually 16" on center,... so, you might need to double-up the studs.. also you lose any structural support that the flat wall provides, and you extend into the space behind the wall where you want to re locate all your current ducting, plumbing, and electrical runs..
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Tools
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It's a balance between meeting the engineering structural requirements and some architectural needs/desires....... I would pick structural support first..
You have some odd shapes at each end where load is not critical and may think about built-ins at those non-support areas...
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Lisa
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| Tools wrote: | | Lisa wrote: | Excellent, Larry! That was what I had envisioned based on your description. When you say the cabinets could be placed against the wall, couldn't they actually be recessed between the studs, making use of that triangular space? (actually, that would be more of a Toblerone shape!)
This is really helping to get some ideas rolling around in me tiny brain! |
Well, yes, they can........ but then you need to space out your studs to more than code may allow, usually 16" on center,... so, you might need to double-up the studs.. also you lose any structural support that the flat wall provides, and you extend into the space behind the wall where you want to re locate all your current ducting, plumbing, and electrical runs.. |
Mmm-hmmm.... I see.... How close to the edge where the roofline meets the floor could the stud wall be built, and still provide enough support?
As an afterthought - I bet I could answer that question - the stud wall would have to go on top of that support beam, wouldn't it? I think there is a load-bearing wall beneath it downstairs, too.... would that make sense?
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Lisa
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| Tools wrote: | It's a balance between meeting the engineering structural requirements and some architectural needs/desires....... I would pick structural support first..
You have some odd shapes at each end where load is not critical and may think about built-ins at those non-support areas... |
Good points. I'd like to keep those odd shapes/nooks and crannies/ exposed - they would add a lot of interest to the space. There may be other areas (I didn't get all angles of the attic photographed - I took them all from the top of the pull-down ladder) where storage cabinets or closets would go.
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Tools
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| Lisa wrote: | | Tools wrote: | It's a balance between meeting the engineering structural requirements and some architectural needs/desires....... I would pick structural support first..
You have some odd shapes at each end where load is not critical and may think about built-ins at those non-support areas... |
Good points. I'd like to keep those odd shapes/nooks and crannies/ exposed - they would add a lot of interest to the space. There may be other areas (I didn't get all angles of the attic photographed - I took them all from the top of the pull-down ladder) where storage cabinets or closets would go. |
Sounds like a fun and useful project... It's best to start at the beginning to make sure that you nail requirements vs. desires.. If you plan to keep it as a pull-down ladder access, then it is not a "living-space", and your requirements will be different than if you decide to build a staircase and door at the end of the hallway for access, and stick a bed up there.........
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Lisa
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| Tools wrote: | | Lisa wrote: | | Tools wrote: | It's a balance between meeting the engineering structural requirements and some architectural needs/desires....... I would pick structural support first..
You have some odd shapes at each end where load is not critical and may think about built-ins at those non-support areas... |
Good points. I'd like to keep those odd shapes/nooks and crannies/ exposed - they would add a lot of interest to the space. There may be other areas (I didn't get all angles of the attic photographed - I took them all from the top of the pull-down ladder) where storage cabinets or closets would go. |
Sounds like a fun and useful project... It's best to start at the beginning to make sure that you nail requirements vs. desires.. If you plan to keep it as a pull-down ladder access, then it is not a "living-space", and your requirements will be different than if you decide to build a staircase and door at the end of the hallway for access, and stick a bed up there......... |
Yes - I'm sure we'd build a staircase if we do anything to the space up there beyond throwing down some plywood sheets to put boxes of Christmas ornaments onto! Our house has a u-shaped hallway with the stairwell in the middle of it leading to the basement. At the bottom of the "U" is the computer desk built-in, which is the same width as the stairwell behind it. As I wrote earlier, I'd think that would be a good place for the base of the stairs.
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away36
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Lisa......I'm just stumbled across this thread, but if you check out Bill's pic of the stunning bedroom he and Wendy built in their attic, you'll see what an amazing job they did of utilizing that space. It's in the "Ask the Poster Below you......" thread.....I'll bet he can give you some great ideas!
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Lisa
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I know, Nancy! I've seen it and it looks great. What I really like about it is that it's all done as "built ins" so there was no need to worry about getting furniture up there... though I do wonder about how they got the mattress for the bed up those spiral stairs.... Bill? Can you enlighten us? 
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BigBird
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| Lisa wrote: | | I know, Nancy! I've seen it and it looks great. What I really like about it is that it's all done as "built ins" so there was no need to worry about getting furniture up there... though I do wonder about how they got the mattress for the bed up those spiral stairs.... Bill? Can you enlighten us? |
Bill, the mattress King knows how to make it fit no matter what.
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East Bay Rider
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Hi guys. The guy we bought the house from was a really great carpenter. When his son was born he needed another room (he already had a daughter). Rather than buy another house and move he just went up. He trussed the floor to the roof beams so it's very sturdy and he built everything in, in oak. The roof is insulated and vented. There's a small walk-in closet and lots of drawers and cupboards. I have a low closet that's tall enough to hang dress shirts and suits. Below one of the skylights is a vanity where Wendrfull does her hair and makeup. Opposite from her walk-in are a couple of short doors that lead to the rest of the attic storage (very minimal - only enough room to store the portable AC, fans, heater and some camping equipment)
The spiral staircase mounts from the cellar to the handrail at the top and has a 14ft threaded rod running through it.
There is an attic pull down staircase located in the rear hallway.
So here's the kicker... My house has 2 bedrooms downstairs and a big bedroom loft upstairs but my house is still a 2 bedroom cottage.
Here's why.
Because there is no heat upstairs it's not taxable living space. There's a 4 foot hole in the floor where the staircase goes up so it gets some heat. We use a space heater when needed and lots of blankets. Cozy.
The mattress came up the spiral staircase standing up and curved a bit.
Room
Staircase
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Lion
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Lisa, your idea is starting to take shape and the guys here know what they are talking about. I know everything cost money but for as hard as you work in taking care of your family I believe you are entitled to have a room/space that you can call your own. It never hurts to discuss the idea with your husband and then get price quotes from contractors!!!
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Lisa
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Thanks, Leo. I have a lot to think about but everyone's comments and expertise have helped.
Bill, thanks for the details about your loft. I may have mentioned this before, but that framed art above your china cabinet is really nice. Is it a painting, or an old print?
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East Bay Rider
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| Lisa wrote: | ...
Bill, thanks for the details about your loft. I may have mentioned this before, but that framed art above your china cabinet is really nice. Is it a painting, or an old print? |
Good eye. It's a painting done in 1923 by my Great Aunt Florence.
I have a few paintings done by her. Sometime I'll take some pictures and post them.
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Jimbits76
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| Tools wrote: | It's a balance between meeting the engineering structural requirements and some architectural needs/desires....... I would pick structural support first..
You have some odd shapes at each end where load is not critical and may think about built-ins at those non-support areas... |
Larry's made some good points...as a few of us Archy type chaps might say "Form follows function". If the space cannot bear that which is above it, it is useless.
Ceiling chords up near the ridge beam may take a bit of the load and limit spread. A new purlin along the rafters at the top of the internal stud wall (oversized headplate) will provide support to the rafters and can be easily concealed. If the span for the new purlin/headplate is a little to large some 100x100 timber crip studs within the wall may help with bearing capacity.
To help David and you out with what may be required is a simple method, it's something I use and I'm as simple as it gets so it must work.
Basically the way I look at a project is I look at the roof. What is holding the roof up? If you were to remove items holdiong said roof up, how do you compensate for their loss. I then work my way down the building...Roof, second floor, first floor, ground floor etc.
That will give you a rough idea of what you can and can't probably do.
From a design point of view I'm liking the idea of a reading room with natural and warm cream tones. Larry's point about the additional ceiling chords made me think, you could always implement some faux stained timber pieces and perhaps a false kingpost truss into the space. These just sit fixed below the plasterboard (drywall) and have no structural purpose. Looking at the exterior of your house, this kind of internal effect may look pretty apt!
J
A new
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Jimbits76
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Lisa forgot to add.
If you were here...my company would charge you approx £1500-£2000 for planning and building regulations work. This would basically cover all administration and design work so your appointed builder could start once the approval turns up.
Engineer would be about £1200.
For the kind of general build (perhaps a dormer window, rooflights, new staircase, remodelling to chimney, ducting etc) I'd estimate a budget of £20,000 to £30,000.
I have no idea what construction projects charge on Oklahoma and have no clue about constructor, engineer or architect fees there.
What I obviously don't say to clients (need the work) is something I would say to you as a friend...
1. Do you need it?
Do you need further living space. You could just chipboard it and use it as a store...total cost...few hundred dollars.
2. Will the resale cover the cost of the build?
Your first port of call with professionals should be a trusted estate agent. Get a value for the house as is and a value if the loft was converted to an extra living area. By adding the Ensuite shower facility it's an additional bedroom, by adding a small sink area and small stove it could be an annexe or self contained flat. This is stuff you need to think about for resale.
3. Do the net gains from it's conversion outweigh the grief caused during the project?
Loft conversions are messy. If you don't have adequate means of ventilation, you could end up with the roof stripped to add a vapour permeable roofing membrane. This therefore would require scaffold towers around the property and a plastic tent! Although the contractors would try and retain the original ceilings to the first floor, there is usually always cracking or damage. Installation of steel load bearing beams within the ceiling/attic floor can cause further damage to the existing structure. Obviously, remedial finishing can tidy this up but loft conversions are notorious for being the biggest pain in the backside for clients.
Then again, when finished you get a nice, lovely, private, space that improves your life quality.
Have a good think about it?
You know where to pm or email if you need any help.
Jim
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jdc
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| Jimbits76 wrote: | Lisa forgot to add.
If you were here...my company would charge you approx £1500-£2000 for planning and building regulations work. This would basically cover all administration and design work so your appointed builder could start once the approval turns up.
Engineer would be about £1200.
For the kind of general build (perhaps a dormer window, rooflights, new staircase, remodelling to chimney, ducting etc) I'd estimate a budget of £20,000 to £30,000.
I have no idea what construction projects charge on Oklahoma and have no clue about constructor, engineer or architect fees there.
What I obviously don't say to clients (need the work) is something I would say to you as a friend...
1. Do you need it?
Do you need further living space. You could just chipboard it and use it as a store...total cost...few hundred dollars.
2. Will the resale cover the cost of the build?
Your first port of call with professionals should be a trusted estate agent. Get a value for the house as is and a value if the loft was converted to an extra living area. By adding the Ensuite shower facility it's an additional bedroom, by adding a small sink area and small stove it could be an annexe or self contained flat. This is stuff you need to think about for resale.
3. Do the net gains from it's conversion outweigh the grief caused during the project?
Loft conversions are messy. If you don't have adequate means of ventilation, you could end up with the roof stripped to add a vapour permeable roofing membrane. This therefore would require scaffold towers around the property and a plastic tent! Although the contractors would try and retain the original ceilings to the first floor, there is usually always cracking or damage. Installation of steel load bearing beams within the ceiling/attic floor can cause further damage to the existing structure. Obviously, remedial finishing can tidy this up but loft conversions are notorious for being the biggest pain in the backside for clients.
Then again, when finished you get a nice, lovely, private, space that improves your life quality.
Have a good think about it?
You know where to pm or email if you need any help.
Jim |
Very useful Jim, I know the cost of these things is always more than people think and are much more involved them people think.
Is it still the case in the UK you have to replace doors to make them fire safe doors?. I ask because we have all original doors throughout our property. I'm going to show what you have written to Rosemary
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Jimbits76
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If you can provide egress form the roof, you may not have to replace the doors Martin. I'm guessing your home is in a conservation area but not listed????
A conservation officer may be able to persuade a building control officer that the doors must stay, if you cannot provide alternate egress that may throw up a problem....but it is one that we should be able to solve.
You know who to pm old boy!!!!!
Jim
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jdc
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| Jimbits76 wrote: | If you can provide egress form the roof, you may not have to replace the doors Martin. I'm guessing your home is in a conservation area but not listed????
A conservation officer may be able to persuade a building control officer that the doors must stay, if you cannot provide alternate egress that may throw up a problem....but it is one that we should be able to solve.
You know who to pm old boy!!!!!
Jim |
Not listed but in a conservation area
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Lisa
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Jim, thank you for the information. I have an idea of the mess and stress involved - we've renovated two houses but didn't live in either one during that time. I had promised myself I wouldn't do it again as it probably took a few years off my life!
One reason we decided against an attic conversion at our previous home was because I was concerned about the damage to the ceilings below, and also because installing a staircase would eat up nearly as much floor space as we would have gained. So we decided to get a bigger house and found this one, which also had the advantage of being within walking distance to the kids' school.
So, nah, we don't need it. We have ample room in the home as it is. But every time I peer around at that enormous space up there, with those terrific roof lines, I think, "what a waste of a fantastic living space!"
So, I'll give it some time. If the urge to do something continues, we may take action. In the meantime, I will try to learn all I can about what we'd be getting into, as well as have a clear idea of what I'd want to get out of the space.
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away36
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| Lisa wrote: |
So, I'll give it some time. If the urge to do something continues, we may take action. In the meantime, I will try to learn all I can about what we'd be getting into, as well as have a clear idea of what I'd want to get out of the space. |
That's an excellent approach Lisa. One of these days you're going to get one of those "smack yourself in the forehead with the heel of your hand" times when you have a brilliant idea of what to do with that space!!! 
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